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Amanda brings you Galley Essentials gally essentials galley essentials


galley jan 2015

galley essentials
Mahina Tiare's crew enjoying a hearty soup

As I snuggle down in the depths of the Pacific NW winter I enjoy catching up on the news of fellow cruisers scattered about the planet but a recent from our dear friends Dorothy and Tom Wadlow on Joyant caught me by surprise. We'd last shared and anchorage together in Norway in 2007 along with a tasty introduction to tortilla soup and Dorothy and recipe featured in March 2008 Galley Essentials. The last I knew they of them they were cruising the US East Coast so news on their exploration of the Patagonian fjords caught me by surprise.

We had Joyant launched 2 days after arriving in PuertoMont, Chile and after a week of commissioning and provisioning we headed south. Our cruise took us 350 "crow" miles south, which with diversions will be more than 1,000 total actual miles round trip. We sailed south along the east side of the Gulf of Ancud inside ChiloeIsland, across the Boca del Guafo and then inside another archipelago to the Laguna San Rafael and back. On the northbound portion we stayed west and visited different places. San Rafael is a national park, the site of the largest Chilean tidewater glacier. It was nice to be back in the ice again - Joyant's 6th season in ice strewn waters.

Along the way we have had many interesting experiences. One has been using shore tie lines in addition to our anchor as due to the often windy, deep, and narrow harbors it is frequently necessary to tie to shore for safe mooring. And then there is rapidly changing weather. I guess you could say it's like Seattle but with wind and real rain, not the drizzle they get. Actually it has not been that bad-or maybe you just get used to it. Most of our nights were spent in areas with little or no sign of civilization. We were the only cruising boat in 100% of our anchorages.

The most challenging and rewarding of our wilderness adventures was KentIsland. The entrance to a large interior waterway is through two tide gates and that turned out to be a bit sketchy as the whole area is uncharted. From the anchorage it's a ¼ mile hike to a sandy beach open to the Pacific. To mark the path, cruisers have hung bottles with their boat and crew information on a paper inside. We, of course, followed the practice with the wine bottle from the night before. It's certainly an interesting spot for bird watching as where else can you see penguins and parrots in the same anchorage?

Joyant's travelogue had me reminiscing of our own Patagonian adventures. Sailing to Cape Horn in 1994 was my first season of temperate expeditions and I quickly learnt that hearty soups were a welcome lunch. I've since honed my soup-making skills and on our recent inside passage trip to Alaska and back as our crew were nearly mutinying on days when a piping hot soup was not on the menu. As there is most often a leftover to use I never make soups the exact recipe but the following recipes are a great start to warm any soul on a chilly day.

Lentil Soup with Prosciutto

2 tablespoons unsalted butter
3 tablespoons olive oil
1/3 cup prosciutto - shredded
1 onion - diced
1 rib celery - diced
1 carrot - diced
1 14.5oz can whole tomatoes with juice - crushed
1 cup French green lentils - rinsed and drained
4 cups chicken stock
3-inch piece Parmesan rind
salt and freshly ground pepper
freshly grated Parmesan

In a large soup pot, add butter, olive oil, prosciutto and onions. Cook until onions are golden. Add carrots and celery; cook 3minutes. Add tomatoes and their juice, simmer 20 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add lentils, stock, Parmesan and salt and pepper to taste. Simmer until lentils are very tender, about 30 minutes. Remove Parmesan rind and serve with grated Parmesan. Serves 4-6.

Leek and Blue Cheese Soup

3 large leeks - thinly sliced
¼ cup unsalted butter
2 tablespoons olive oil
4 oz crumbled blue cheese
2 tablespoons flour
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
1 teaspoon black pepper
6 cups chicken stick
½ cup diced scallions
additional blue cheese

In a large soup pot melt butter and olive oil. Add leeks and sauté 10minutes. Add blue cheese, stirring until cheese melts. Slowly add flour, stirring constantly until absorbed. Add mustard and black pepper. Add stock and bring to a boil while stirring. Reduce heat, cover and simmer for 15 minutes. Serve garnished with blue cheese and scallions.

Pressure Cooker Spicy Pinto Bean and Ham Soup

1 cup pinto beans - soaked overnight
4 teaspoons olive oil
1 onion - diced
1½ cups diced ham
1 14-oz can diced tomatoes and juice
4 cups chicken stock
2 teaspoons ground cumin
1 can diced green Anaheim chilies
½ cup chopped fresh cilantro
scallions - diced

Drain beans and add to pressure cooker with 3 cups water and 2 teaspoons olive oil. Bring to pressure and cook 8 minutes. Release pressure and drain beans into a colander. Clean pressure cooker and place on stove. Heat 2 teaspoons olive oil and saute onions until soft. Add cumin and chilies, cook 2 minutes. Add beans, tomatoes, and stock. Bring to pressure and cook 3 minutes. Release pressure, add cilantro and serve soup garnish with scallions. Serves 4.

A fast-disappearing ginger carrot soup

Ginger Carrot Soup

3 tablespoons olive oil
6 large carrots - chopped
2 shallots - chopped
4 cloves garlic - chopped
2 cups vegetable stock
2 cups water
1 tablespoon grated ginger
3 pinches saffron threads
1 tablespoon chopped carrot greens or parsley
1 bay leaf
salt and pepper

In a large soup pot sauté shallots and carrots in olive oil for 10 minutes. Add garlic and salt and pepper to taste. Add remaining ingredients, bring all to a boil then lower heat and simmer, covered, 25 minutes. Remove bay leaf and puree.

Thai Grilled Corn Soup

2 cups vegetable broth
1 14-oz. can of light coconut milk
1 tablespoon red curry paste
2 ears of fresh corn - shucked and grilled, kernels removed from the cob
2 tablespoons fresh lime juice
1 tablespoon lime zest
1 tablespoon Tamari soy sauce
¼ teaspoon kosher salt
fresh cilantro
fresh red hot Thai chili pepper - thinly sliced

In a soup pot over medium heat combine broth, coconut milk, and curry; simmer 2 minutes. Add corn and simmer 3 minutes. Remove from heat, add lime juice, zest, Tamari and salt. Serve garnished with cilantro and chili pepper. Serves 4.

galley jan 2015


Located halfway between Tonga and the Cook Islands the small island of Niue has led itself to being a nation all of their own, mainly due to its remoteness and cultural differences from its Polynesian neighbors. When approaching from sea Niue looks flat with coral limestone cliffs that resemble ‘Swiss cheese'. The island is approximately 45 miles in circumference around a central forested plateau and you'll not find long white sandy beaches but small secluded sandy coves nestled in between turquoise grottoes that lead to a rugged fringing reef. Local's affectionately call Niue "The Rock" and welcome visitors to their small paradise.

A weekly potluck is hosted by the Niue Yacht Club which meets at Niue Backpackers hostel and it's a fun time mixing with locals, visitors and cruisers. At a recent potluck I was chatting with an interesting chap about his bee keeping. When I asked him numerous questions, Cory inquired why I was interested in bees and I explained that although I'd never kept bees I'd always held a fascination of them. He mentioned that they were currently having a working party at his apiary and asked if I'd like to help.

On arrival at the Niue Honey Company I was kitted out in an oversized bee-keeping outfit and went to work with Cory and Matthew inspecting three hives that had recently been discovered in the forest. Cory bought the Niue Honey company 14 years ago and although it was established in 1960 the hives had long since been abandoned. His first job, with the help of locals, was to set about finding the 200 or so hives that were scattered about the islands forest and survey the health of the bees. The bees are Italian Yellow honey bees and fortunately there are no signs of European Foulbrood, Colony Collapse Disorder or Varroa and Tracheal mites nor has insecticides, antibiotics or antifungal agents been used. The bees gather from the wild flowers of coconut palms and other forest flora, including the medicinal shrub noni, creating a 100% pure, raw, natural amber liquid honey. Cory and his small team have increased the number of hives from 230 to 1,000 and currently produce 25 tons of honey annually.

    Bees are crucial to the reproduction and diversity of flowering plants. They pollinate more than 130 fruit, vegetable, and seed crops we rely on; that's about one third of our diet. Cory views his mission at Niue Honey more than a money making venture; it's a duty to help save the world's honey bees. Working with the local community and in part helped by Niue's isolation Cory is creating a stronghold of healthy honey bees. Along those lines Mark L. Winston's new book "Bee Time: Lessons from the Hive" is a fascinating read while the 2010 documentary film Queen of the Sun: What Are the Bees Telling Us? directed by Taggart Siegel is eye opening.

Sadly bee numbers are declining worldwide so here's some ways you can help.

Stop using insecticides
Encourage the planting of bee-friendly plants and natural habit gardens
•Create a water source in your yard for pollinators
•Go organic Support your local beekeepers.

I thoroughly enjoyed helping out on the hives and in exchange I was given some wonderful honey that inspired the following recipes.

honey bees
Inspecting a bee hive under the watchful eye of Cory and Matthew

Honey and Date Granola

3 cups rolled oats
½ cup flax seed
1/3 cup honey
¼ cup coconut oil
2 tablespoons maple syrup
1 teaspoon cinnamon
½ teaspoon each of nutmeg, ground ginger, ground cloves, allspice and salt
¼ cup pecans
½ cup dates - pitted and chopped
½ cup golden/Inca berries

Preheat oven to 350°F. Mix together oats and flax seeds. In a small bowl whisk spices together. In a saucepan over medium heat melt together coconut oil, honey and maple syrup. Whisk in spice mixture. Combine wet ingredients with oats. Spread granola mix onto a baking sheet and bake 30 minutes adding pecans in the last 5 minutes. Remove from oven and mix in dried fruit.

Baked Honey-Marinated Fish

4 6-oz white fish fillets
¾ cup honey
½ cup low-sodium soy sauce
1/3 cup toasted sesame seed oil
1/3 cup apple cider vinegar
1½ teaspoons freshly ground pepper
1 teaspoon chopped fresh ginger

Combine all ingredients (except for fish) in a medium dish. Add cod and marinate 24 hours, turning fish after 12 hours. Remove fish, place on baking sheet covered in parchment paper and bake at 450° F for 10 minutes until fish is opaque and easily flakes. Serve with brown rice and steamed vegetables.

Lemon-Honey Lamb Stir-Fry

1 lb green beans
1 tablespoon olive oil
2 lbs boneless lamb shoulder - sliced
1 red onion - sliced
2 red bell peppers - sliced
2 tablespoons honey
juice of 1 lemon
¼ cup fresh cilantro - chopped
1 tablespoon sesame seeds
salt and fresh ground pepper

Bring a large pot of water to a boil, add beans and blanch 2 minutes. Heat olive oil in a skillet over medium heat. Add lamb and stir fry until browned. Set aside. Add onions and bell pepper and cook until soft, about 2 minutes. Add beans and cook 2 minutes. Return lamb, add the honey, lemon juice, cilantro, sesame seeds, salt and pepper. Stir-fry until honey coats the ingredients, about 2 minutes. Garnished with cilantro and serve with wild rice. Serves 6.

Moroccan Chicken with Honey and Apricots

2 teaspoons olive oil
1 onion - chopped
4 chicken breasts - diced
1 teaspoon Ras el Hanout
1 teaspoon harissa sauce
1 tablespoons honey
½ cup dried apricots - diced
½ cup sliced almonds
6 carrots - cut into chunks
1 15-oz can chickpeas - drained
3 celery stalks - chopped
1 tablespoon fresh parsley
1 tablespoon fresh cilantro
½ cup white wine or chicken broth
salt and pepper

In a large pot over medium heat sauté onion in oil. Add next eleven ingredients and heat through. Deglaze with wine. Cover and simmer until chicken is cooked; about 30 minutes. Season to taste. Garnish with sliced almonds and cilantro and serve with couscous. Serves 4.

Honey Baked Plums

1 1/8 lbs plums - halved and stoned
1 vanilla pod
1 cinnamon stick
¾ cup orange juice
2 tablespoons honey
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
Greek yoghurt and walnuts - for serving

Preheat oven to 360°F. Arrange plums in an oven dish, skin side down. Slice vanilla pod and remove seeds. Mix seeds with orange juice, honey and ground cinnamon. Pour mix over plums and add vanilla pod a nd cinnamon stick. Bake 25 miutes. Serve with yoghurt and nuts. Serves 4.


This month's Galley Essentials is from my friend Dorothy.

In 2000 my husband, Steve, and I launched Adagio, our 52' sailing catamaran, designed by Gino Morrelli and Pete Melvin. Adagio is an Italian musical term meaning slow and graceful. Although Adagio is fast over the water, she represents the pas de deux in ballet, danced to Adagio music, in which strength, skill and hard work result in creating the illusion of grace and beauty. We've been cruising the Pacific for fourteen years and last year we cruised from New Zealand to New Caledonia and back. This year we're sailing back to Alaska then Seattle to visit family and you're welcome to view our adventures at

Steve and I had tried tennis, golf, etc., and found that we both enjoyed sailing together the best. We raced monohulls for many years beginning in 1970, and chartered in different countries. After every yacht charter we wanted to continue sailing rather than go back home so we knew that we wanted to go cruising. We attended the Mahina Offshore Cruising Seminar and I sailed aboard Mahina Tiare on a very exciting passage from New Zealand to Tahiti in 1998.

I'm pretty easy going, a bit nerdy, outdoorsy and I love to cook so we designed Adagio's "U"-shaped galley so that I will have everything that I need at hand while I am cooking. Our goal is to have healthy, gourmet meals using the least amount of electricity, water and time to prepare. The galley is located in the main salon, surrounded 360 degrees by windows, for enjoying the view and helping keep watch. There's double sinks, a two-burner stove top, microwave/convection oven under the counter, refrigerator and dishwasher.

I do the provisioning and cooking, Steve does the washing up unless he's in the middle of repairing boat gear. When we have friends aboard, a second person is a welcome help in making more extensive meals. We're eating more fruits, vegetables, eggs and fish, and less meat so a large wok, with a screen spatter lid and a glass lid for steaming, has become my most frequently used pot. My recipes have become simpler - no more than 5 or 6 ingredients as I can't be bothered measuring out 6 kinds of spices for one main dish.

Quick Jambalaya with Smoked Chicken

3 tablespoon olive oil
1 onion - sliced
1 green pepper - sliced
5 cloves garlic - chopped
1 cup long grain rice
1½ inches of chorizo sausage - sliced
2 cups chicken broth - hot
12 oz cooked smoked chicken breast - diced

Heat oil in a pan, add the onion and pepper, sauté 5 minutes. Add garlic, chorizo and rice, cook 3 minutes. Add broth, ½ cup at a time, waiting until ingredients are simmering before adding more. Cover and simmer until the rice is cooked, 15 minutes then add chicken. Serves 4.

Brussels Sprouts Medley

4 tablespoons olive oil
1 lb. brussels sprouts - cut in half
3 carrots - cut in half lengthwise then sliced into half-moons
4 garlic cloves - chopped
1 onion - sliced
1/3 cup pitted olives
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 14-oz can crushed tomatoes with juices
½ cup chicken broth

In a large wok over high heat heat olive oil and saute all ingredients, except tomatoes and broth 5 minutes. Add tomatoes and broth, cover and reduce heat to medium. Stir after 3 minutes. Continue steaming vegetables until the brussels sprouts are tender but still crisp.

When provisioning we try to find the freshest fruits and vegetables and non-refrigerated eggs, next is the leanest meat containing no bones. In preparation for a passage I make dukkah, Kalamata olive dip, biscotti, cookies, and maybe an apple cake along with soups and stews which I freeze. We make ice cream, use milk powder to make yoghurt and also fish on passages. I've had a couple of provisioning mishaps due to translation. In New Caledonia I unintentionally came home with lamb's brains and in Yugoslavia I selected five bottles of apple juice because of the label picturing apples, so thankfully the cashier asked if I intended to buy five bottles of vinegar.

Apple Cake

3 cups flour
1 teaspoon baking soda
½ teaspoon salt
1½ cups canola oil
3 large eggs
2 cups brown sugar
1 tablespoon cinnamon
½ teaspoon nutmeg
1 tablespoon dark rum
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
3 apples - peeled, cored and diced
½ cup dried cranberries
½ cup whole almonds

Preheat oven to 350°F, butter and flour a 12-cup bundt pan. In a medium bowl, combine flour, baking soda and salt. In a larger bowl, whisk together the oil, eggs, sugar, cinnamon, nutmeg, rum, and vanilla. Fold in flour mix then apples, cranberries and almonds. Bake until a knife inserted into the cake comes out clean, about 1¼ hours. Serve plain or with a rum sauce and whipped cream.

Thai Fish Cakes

1½ tablespoons bottled fish sauce
1 egg
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons toasted sesame seed oil
1 lb. white fish fillets - cut into 1-inch chunks
1 onion - sliced
3 garlic cloves - minced
1 tablespoon fresh ginger - minced
½ teaspoon fresh chopped chilies
1 teaspoon white flour
fresh chopped cilantro
canola oil to cook the cakes

In a large bowl, combine fish sauce, pepper and egg. Heat sesame seed oil in a wok or frying pan and sauté onion, garlic and ginger until onion is transparent. Add fish and chili sauce, cook until fish is nearly cooked. Remove from heat and slowly stir in flour. Add fish mix to egg mix and blend, preferably with an electric hand mixer wand, until well-mixed but still chunky, add cilantro. Heat 2 tablespoons oil in a wok. Using 1/3 cup measure form fish cakes and cook them both sides until light brown. Remove to a pre-heated plate and serve with Thai cucumber sauce.

Thai Cucumber Sauce

1 cucumber - seeds removed and diced small
1/3 cup mirin (sweet cooking rice wine)
4 tablespoon white vinegar
1/3 cup fresh cilantro - chopped
1/3 cup chopped green onions
2 tablespoons soy sauce
1 tablespoon garlic - minced
1 tablespoon ginger - minced
1 tablespoon toasted sesame seed oil
1 tablespoon sweet chili sauce
1 tablespoon honey (optional)
Combine all ingredients.

My advice to you is cook what you enjoy eating. I have a good appetite at sea which helps inspire me to use what needs to be eaten. Be adventurous. I love to cook for other people and provision with food to share. A nice way to repay people who do you a favor is to bake them something or invite them for a meal. For more recipes tips and tricks sail on to

galley essentials april 2015 

hilo sharks chocolate stall
Visiting with Erin at his Hilo Sharks Chocolate stall

My first encounter with a cacao pod was on the island of Samoa. The large red almond shaped pod streaked with orange, brown sat on a market table alongside coconuts, limes bananas and taro. Not recognizing pod I asked the stall holder what it was. She instantly called out in Samoan to her neighboring stall owner who then promptly swung a large machete out from under the table. The pod was deftly tossed across the gap to a large waiting hand where it received two swift blows that cracked it open. A half pod was handed to me and I was gazed at a huddle of around 25 beans, each swaddled in a white pulp, erupting from the pod. I was none the wiser until in unison the Samon's said "Koko" with big smiles on their faces and made a drinking motion with their hands. Ah, my first introduction to the source of chocolate!

The history of chocolate dates back millennia although its original form was not what we crave today. Cacao grew in the understory of the rainforest of the northern Amazon where the Olmec's began to cultivate it producing a beverage used in rituals and to fortify solders. Highly valued, cacao, called xocoalt by the Mesoamerican, became a currency that was traded northward. The Mayans decorated urns with images of the pods, drank the bitter liquid hot while the Aztecs used cacao in numerous ways, the most common being grinding the beans and adding chili to create spices such as the mole sauce we know. It was the cacao drink that made the biggest impression on the European conquerors who introduced it to the Spain court where they discovered that adding sugar, vanilla and cinnamon made it a fine drink.

cacao pod
Hilo Sharks Chocolate: cacao pod, beans, nibs and chocolate

In 1847, Joseph Fry discover the magical elixir of chocolate; mix some melted cacao butter back into "Dutched" cocoa powder, to create a paste that could be pressed into a mold. Since then it's been produced the world over, taking on a cachet similar to wine. Whatever your taste I recently chatted with Erin from Hilo Sharks Chocolate, Hawaii and discovered it's a complex journey from bean to bar. Sharks cacao beans are removed from the harvested pods by hand and placed into buckets to ferment for a week to optimize their flavor. Then they're sundried on a rack for up to ten days before being roasted to draw out their properties. The next process it to send them through the "Crackenstein", a homemade device that splits and crushes the beans into nibs; the building blocks of chocolate. Placed into a mélange the nibs are spun at and melded, to a temperature of 115°F, with cocoa butter, sugar and vanilla added for flavor. Five pounds of nibs ultimately yields thirty ounces of chocolate. The final step is tempering: cooling then raising the chocolates temperature to allow controlled crystallization, giving the bars the perfect snap factor.

You may need to be an alchemist to craft your own chocolate but not so to create the following delectable recipes.

Chocolate Buckwheat Pancakes

1 oz. dark chocolate - grated
1 1/3 cups buckwheat or spelt flour
1 large egg
1/3 cup brown sugar
1 cup milk
2 teaspoons baking soda
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
unsalted butter - melted, as needed

Place all the pancake ingredients (except butter) in a blender or food processor and process until a smooth, thick batter is formed. Leave the batter to rest 10 minutes. Heat a large frying pan until hot and grease with butter. Spoon 1/4-cup portions of batter into pan, cook over medium heat until bubbles appear pancake surface, carefully flip and cook 2 minutes.

Strawberry Salsa with Chocolate Nibs

6 large strawberries - chopped
½ cup sweet onion - finely chopped
2 ½ tablespoons fresh mint - minced
1 ½ tablespoons lime juice
2 teaspoon chocolate nibs
2 teaspoon agave nectar
1 teaspoon finely chopped dried ancho chili
¼ teaspoon kosher salt
¼ teaspoon fresh pepper

Combine all the ingredients and chill 30 minutes. Serve with chevre and crackers.

Spicy, Smoky, Cacao Nibs Rub

4 tablespoons cacao nibs
2 teaspoons hot red pepper flakes
2 teaspoons ground cumin
1 teaspoon ground mustard
1 tablespoon chipotle chili powder
1 teaspoon smoked paprika
½ teaspoon ground allspice
4 tablespoons brown sugar
2 tablespoons kosher salt

Combine all ingredients in a food processor, spice grinder, or mortar and pestle. Grind until the nibs break into particles the size of large grains of sand. Store in a tightly covered jar for up to 1 month.

Pressure Cooker Chicken Mole

3 tablespoons vegetable oil
2 tablespoons chili powder
2 tablespoons unsweetened cocoa powder
3 garlic cloves - minced
2 chipotle chilies in adobo sauce - minced
½ teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/8 teaspoon ground cloves
2 ½ cups chicken broth
1 15oz can diced tomatoes
1 cup raisins
¼ cup almond butter
2 lbs. boneless-skinless chicken thighs
1 onion – diced
1 red bell pepper - diced
¼ cup chopped fresh cilantro
In pressure cooker heat 2 tablespoons of oil, add chili powder, cocoa, garlic, chipotle, cinnamon, and cloves; cook 30 seconds. Stir in broth, tomatoes, raisins and almond butter; simmer 5 minutes. Puree with an immersion blender until smooth, about 30 seconds. Meanwhile, in a small frying pan sauté onion in remaining oil 5 minutes. Add onion and chicken to the pressure cooker. Bring to pressure over medium-high heat, reduce heat and cook at pressure 15 minutes. Remove from heat and release pressure. Transfer chicken to bowl and shred meat. Meanwhile, bring sauce to a simmer, add red pepper and cook 10 minutes. Return chicken and stir to combine. Serve in bowls with rice and top with fresh cilantro.

Raw Energy Bite

1 cup old fashioned oats
1 cup of almond butter
½ cup ground flaxseed
½ cup cocoa nibs
¼ cup sunflower seeds
1/3 cup agave nectar
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
raw sliced almonds for garnish
Mix all ingredients together (except sliced almonds) until everything is well incorporated. Refrigerate 30 minutes. Spoon out a heaping tablespoon at a time and roll into a ball. Repeat until all of the mixture is used. Top with raw sliced almonds.

Bourbon Chocolate Sauce

½ cup half & half
2 tablespoons brown sugar
¾ cup semi-sweet chocolate chips
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
¼ cup bourbon
In a small saucepan, combine half & half and brown sugar. Heat over medium heat until the sugar dissolves and half & half starts to bubble. Remove pan from the heat. Add chocolate chips and vanilla to a glass bowl. Pour hot half & half mixture over the chocolate. Stir vigorously until smooth. Stir in bourbon.

May Galley Essentials

I first met Jayne and Mike in 2000 when they attended our Annapolis Offshore Cruising Seminar. Now they're bona fide cruisers with a series of DVD's and boat show lectures on cruising the Down East Circle. Here's Jayne's view of galley life

We sail a 1978 Niagara 35 with the classic layout. She's always been named Phantasia II and although we've thought of other names we've never got around to changing it but we do call her Phanty. Mike grew up in Vancouver and has been sailing since he was a child but I've only been sailing 15 years. I was attracted to sailing by the freedom, I'm an exploratory person but not reckless. Our cruising plan is to continue exploring Newfoundland, Labrador and the Gulf of St Lawrence then perhaps cross to Ireland and Europe.

Our galley is the classic Niagara layout: on center line there's a deep double sink and counter with drawers below and an extra flip-up counter forward. Opposite the passage way is a gimbaled stove, fridge and counter. There's closed slider door storage above on both sides. The fridge is divided with one side colder than the other but it has a single, heavy, well-insulated lid which we're planning to also divide then I won't have to move everything off the counter to access the fridge.

We carry a number of thermoses, including wide-mouth, to have hot food and drinks ready underway. As we currently only cruise on short passages we don't do any special provisioning other than stock lots of basics although we make up zip-lock bags with dried fruit, crackers and cheese, crunchy (not soft and sweet) granola bars keeping sweet, rich and oily snacks to a minimum. We like to explore the places we visit, shopping the local markets and enjoying the best local food available especially fresh fish. When fresh salad fixings can't be obtained I utilize my sprouter.

may 2
Mike making pizza

We share the cooking and cleaning but it's mostly my responsibility. Mike loves to make pizza and bread and as a birthday gift I gave him a bread-making course at our local heritage bakery. My first and favorite cookbook is Cruising Cuisine: Fresh Food from the Galley, by Kay Pastorius. We also use iPad cooking apps saving recipes and looking up new ones when there is an opportunity. Mike uses the New York Times app and follows "Roberta's Pizza Dough", it's a great recipe to make on a chilly day at anchor.

We're lousy fishers and I once told a Newfoundland fisherman that we were having trouble finding fish to buy. He dashed off saying, "My love, we can't have you without a proper scoff of fish" and returned 15 minutes later with stuffed crabs, fresh cod, salt-cod, cods tongues and frozen moose meat. He then proceeded to demonstrate how to cook cod's an acquired taste. Unfortunately it was more than we could use before the fridge started to smell like an old fish dock. I did make moose stew; not a lot different to beef but with much less fat, a richer flavor and texture, and of course it's organic!

The most memorable meal of our travels has to be the Bouillibaisse at Auberge William Wakeham, in the town of Gaspé, Quebec or lobster ravioli in Quebec City or perhaps the seafood salad in Havre, St. Pierre in the Mingan Archipelago, Quebec.

My advice to you is "YOLO" - You only live once, so try new things when the opportunity is there.

Crab Nicoise

For each plate - on a bed of torn lettuce arrange steamed green beans, asparagus or yellow beans, sliced tomatoes and halved pitted-olives. Thin-sliced radish and cucumber can be a nice addition. Around the edge add chunks of firm-cooked potatoes and quartered hard-boiled egg. The piece-de-resistance...piled high crab meat but this could also be shrimp, freshly grilled tuna or salmon or in a pinch canned tuna. Drizzle with a vinaigrette and garnish with parsley and black pepper.

Traditional Salt-cod Cakes

Purchased in a vacuum-sealed bag and kept cool, without refrigeration, salt-cod can last almost indefinitely. Salt-cod must be well soaked, preferably overnight, to remove the most of the salt; put in a sealable bowl, cover with fresh water; drain off and replace water, repeating several times.

1lb salt-cod pieces - soaked
3 potatoes - peeled and halved
1 onion - diced
¼-cup butter
1 egg - beaten
2 teaspoons savory or tarragon
ground black pepper to taste
½ cup buckwheat flour or panko crumbs

In a saucepan, cover cod with water and simmer 15 minutes. Drain and break up into small pieces. Boil potatoes until soft, drain, then mash. Saute onion in butter until golden. In large bowl combine all the ingredients and make into cakes. Roll cakes on flour and refrigerate. Cook in oil until golden on each side. Serve sprinkled with chives and a condiment of mayonnaise with mustard and lemon juice added. Makes 2-dozen but bite-size make a great appetizer.

Fresh Berry Galette

We pack a sealable container when we're out hiking in late summer for picking wild blueberries, raspberries, partridge berries or bakeapples (cloudberries).

2 teaspoons sugar
1 cup all-purpose flour
½ cup cold butter - diced
¼ cup cold water
1 pint berries
¼ cup sugar
1½ teaspoons cornstarch
¼ cup milk

Whisk sugar into flour then work in butter until crumbly with pea-like texture. Gradually mix in water until combined but not wet. Gather into a ball, sprinkle flour onto a surface and roll into about a 12" circle, transfer to cookie sheet and chill. Mix together berries, sugar and cornstarch. Preheat oven to 350°F. Spoon berries onto pastry leaving a 2" edge. Fold and crimp edge up and over berries leaving an open center. Brush edge with milk and sprinkle with sugar. Bake 45 minutes.

Seafood Stew

2lbs white fish - diced
meat from 2 cooked lobsters
1lb shrimp
2lbs mussels and/or clams
½ cup olive oil
1 onion - chopped
1 bell pepper - chopped
3 cloves garlic - minced
1 28-oz can tomatoes
2 cups white wine
2 cups stock
1 14-oz can of green beans with liquid
salt and pepper to taste

Steam mollusks in two cups of water until they just open. Strain and reserve cooking broth. In a large pot, sauté onions and pepper in olive oil until soft. Add garlic, sauté 1 minute. Add remaining ingredients except fish and seafood, simmer 20 minutes. Add fish, cover and cook 5 minutes. Add seafood and heat until shrimp are just cooked, 3 minutes. Garnished with parsley and serve with crusty bread. Serves 6-8.

To read more of Jayne's and Mike's adventures visit

Galley essentials June 2015

galley essentials june

During my first visit to Samoa I became fascinated with the local fabric block printing, a modern take on the traditional tapa cloth made from bark. I also discovered a vibrant gallery in downtown Apia called Plantation House that sold a wonderful array of hand block textiles. A few years later when we I returned I was sad to find they were no longer there. I stopped by the visitor's center and they said that Marita was now at her plantation house on the outskirts of town and would I like her leaflet. I explained to John that I'd love to visit the gallery and he turned that leaflet over and read the other side. What's high tea? He asked.

I explained that high tea is what the English traditionally call afternoon tea; a posh tea drinking party where you nibble away on a dainty treats and stick out your pinky finger as you lift your tea cup. "Oh good, let's go!" exclaimed John. "It says here each Wednesday, High Tea at the plantation will be served; exquisite bone china, delicious morsels, lush garden surrounding and hats optional."

Marita greeted us after we'd travelled the long palm lined driveway that lead to the colourful tropical gardens of an old plantation house. She explained that the house was the gallery which we were welcome to visit after our high tea that was to be served in the small traditional Samoan open sided thatched building called a fale. Billie Holiday softly played as we sat at our picture perfect table set with fine English china atop a hot pink hand blocked Plantation House tablecloth. A two-tiered china tray appeared laden with savories and tea cakes followed by a plate of mini quiches and a basket that held warm scones wrapped in a crisp embroidered napkin. The accompaniments were whipped cream, lemon curd and strawberry preserve. We chose a garden fresh lemon grass tea followed by a subtle lapsang souchong and after a few sips we began to unwind and take in our surroundings.

I had assumed the other tea takers would be tourists but to our left was a lively party of young Samoan ladies celebrating the visit of an old friend and the round table had a group of women work colleagues who annually enjoy high tea together. John was not to be the only male as the far corner table held two distinguished gentlemen deep in conversation. As our final decadent treats were served, rum balls and sherry, Marita joined us for a chat telling us stories of the china pieces on our table. She'd started a china collection when her husband was studying for his doctorate in the U.S. before he was appointed ambassador to the UN. Wondering what to do with a tropical house full of china she decided to serve high tea. I discreetly asked if she knew who the distinguished Samoan gentlemen in the corner were and she exclaimed "Oh that's my husband Felix and one of his former students".

Needless to say we ended our tea with a wander around the gallery and if you're in need of tropical inspiration may I suggest a visit to PlantationHouseSamoa on Facebook, or perhaps if you wish to create your own High Tea follow one of these recipes.

Smoked Salmon on Pumpernickel

¼ cup mayonnaise
1 tablespoon minced green onion
1 tablespoon minced fresh dill
1 tablespoon capers
1 teaspoon horseradish
pepper to taste
2 teaspoons butter
8 slices pumpernickel bread
4-6 slices smoked salmon
12 thin cucumber slices

In a small bowl combine first 6 ingredients. Spread butter thinly over pumpernickel then mayonnaise mix. Divide salmon and cucumber over 4 slices of pumpernickel; top with remaining bread. Cut each sandwich into fourths.

Spinach and Cheddar Mini Quiches: pie crust

¾ cup frozen chopped spinach - thawed
2 oz cheddar cheese - grated
4 eggs
½ cup heavy cream
½ teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon black pepper
¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper
1 tablespoon fresh chopped chives

Preheat oven to 350°F. Roll out dough, cut rounds with a biscuit cutter. Press rounds into a non-stick mini muffin pan and poke holes in the bottom with a fork. Bake 7 minutes, remove from oven and reduce heat to 325°F. Squeeze excess water out of spinach, chop and divide into each crust followed by cheese. Beat eggs and whisk in remaining ingredients. Pour egg mix into crusts. Bake 20 minutes.

Lemon Poppy Seed Scones

2 cups flour
1/3 cup sugar
2 teaspoons baking powder
1/8 teaspoon salt
1/3 cup chilled butter
1 beaten egg
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
½ cup heavy cream
2 tablespoons fresh lemon zest
1 tablespoon poppy seeds
1 egg beaten for wash
1 tablespoon heavy cream for wash

In a large bowl combine dry ingredients. Cut in butter until butter pieces are pea size. Add zest and poppy seeds. In a small bowl combine cream, egg, and vanilla. Add to dry ingredients and mix until liquid is absorbed. Remove from bowl and knead until it holds together. Pat dough in to a 7″ x 1½ ″ thick circle. Cut into 8 triangles and place on greased cookie sheet. For wash whisk egg and cream together and brush over scones. Bake 375°F for 15 minutes.

Butterfly Cakes

3 cups flour
1 tablespoon baking powder
½ teaspoon salt
1¾ cups sugar
1 cup unsalted butter
1 cup buttermilk
2 teaspoon vanilla extract
4 eggs
raspberry jam
1 cup heavy whipping cream - whipped
powdered sugar

Prepare cupcake tins with paper liners. Combine flour, baking powder and salt. In a large bowl beat together butter and sugar until fluffy. Add 2 eggs, one at a time, then half flour mix, half the buttermilk then another egg. Add remaining milk, egg, flour and vanilla. Half fill cupcakes. Bake 25 minutes at 350°F. Once cool decorate by cutting out the center of each cake, angling the knife at 45º, then cut the pieces in half to resemble butterfly wings. Place a dollop of jam followed by cream in the cavity then position "wings" on top. Dust with powdered sugar.

Rum Truffles

3.52 oz 50% dark chocolate - finely chopped
1/3 cup + 1 tablespoon heavy whipping cream
1½ tablespoons butter at room temperature
2 tablespoons rum
¼ cup cocoa powder
finely chopped roasted hazelnuts
coconut flakes

Combine chocolate and butter. In a saucepan bring cream to a boil then mix into chocolate, add rum. Chill 4 hours. Scoop large tablespoonful of ganache and shape into balls. Roll truffles in cocoa and place on the baking tray lined with paper. Chill then transfer to a sealed container for storage. Serve at room temperature.

Galley essentials July 2015

july 2015
The dockside kids dinner table at KYC

Ketchikan harbor was in full swing as we arrived in the late afternoon. Four massive cruise ships lined the waterfront towering over the town, low flying float planes filled the sky either taking off or jostling for landing space with large fishing vessels that were purposefully steaming at full speed while in their wake skiffs loaded with families and their fishing gear scurried about. As we entered Thomas Basin a cacophony of chainsaw noise resounded across the water intermingled with whoops and cheers; a full house the Alaskan Lumberjack Show. Navigating past the fishing boat docks we were relived to see a couple of folks at an empty slip on Ketchikan Yacht Club's dock waiting to take our lines. They instantly welcomed us to Ketchikan and the Yacht Club potluck that evening.

KYC was formed in by 1933 by ten local boaters when the city began to create Thomas Basin at the mouth of the Ketchikan Creek. They found a wanigan on float logs beached nearby and bought it for $200 then persuaded the city council to allot float space for it in the basin. Today the rustic red clubhouse is iconic and the current KYC members still uphold the clubs long involvement in creating an active positive boating community with sailing lessons, yacht races and boating resources. The clubhouse it a focal point and not only are its facilities available to members but also to transient moorage guests.

A hive of activity was occurring at the club when I arrived with the pesto pasta our crew had created. There were kids everywhere; some playing with games in the small lounge, others helping out in the kitchen, a few scattered about chatting to adults and even more outside huddled around a picnic table. Happy Birthday Caleb was chalked on the blackboard along with 3 towering birthday cakes and birthday balloons floated around the room. I introduced myself to a girl who was sitting quietly in an armchair reading a book and asked who Caleb was. "Oh, that's my big brother and he's turning 15 today." In chatting some more I discover her name was Addy and that enjoys home schooling, playing the violin, cooking and reading. She lives on a 46' steel sailboat called Nadejda with her mum Molly, dad Peter and six siblings. Abby claimed that the entire family adores visiting the club especially on race night as everyone loves being out on the water racing.

An announcement was made that the potluck was ready and the kids inside neatly packed up their games and headed outside to round up the junior crew. With plenty of tasty dishes to choose from followed by a decadent chocolate birthday cake it was a perfect potluck. As dinner wound to a close I helped clear the tables with an elderly member in preparation for the members meeting. I asked he minded having so many kids about the club and he replied "Some folks were a little put out at first when the Nadejda crew first showed up but they're a wonderful family and a number other young families have joined because of them. It's definitely a bonus to have a keen young generation of sailors about the club, it's much livelier now." Visit if you're cruising to Alaska's First City, if you're interested in discovering more on the Nadejda crew, or try out a following KYC inspired recipe for your next potluck.

Taco Salad

4 ounces Mexican chorizo - casing removed
5 cups chopped romaine lettuce
½ cup corn kernels
½ cup canned black
1 tomato - diced
2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro leaves
¼ cup tortilla strips
¼ cup plus 1 tablespoon olive oil
¼ cup apple cider vinegar
1 lime - zest and juice
1 teaspoon honey
1 avocado - diced
¼ cup grated cheddar cheese

In a large skillet sauté chorizo in 1 tablespoon olive oil until dry and crisp, about 2 minutes. Place lettuce in a large bowl then top with chorizo, corn, black beans, tomato and cilantro. For the dressing whisk together oil, vinegar, lime zest and juice, and honey. Add to salad and gently toss. Stir in avocado and garnish with cheese and tortilla strips.

Four KYC potlucks items

Easy Lasagna

1 lb. lean ground beef
½ onion - diced
4 garlic cloves - minced
1 teaspoon Italian seasoning
1 pinch of red pepper flakes
salt and pepper to taste
1 15oz container ricotta cheese
2 eggs
¼ cup parsley - chopped
½ cup of Parmesan cheese
9 lasagna noodles
4 cups of marinara sauce
2 cups mozzarella cheese - grated

Preheat oven to 375°F. In a skillet sauté beef, 3 minutes. Add onions, garlic, and seasonings saute until onion is tender, In a large bowl combine ricotta, eggs and ¼ cup of Parmesan. Meanwhile, cook noodles per instructions. Layer the base of 9 x 13 inch baking pan with marina sauce followed by, three noodles, ricotta mix, beef, mozzarella, then sauce. Repeat layering finishing with noodles and sauce. Sprinkle with mozzarella and Parmesan. Bake covered 30 minutes, uncover and bake for 15 minutes. Serves 8.

Mexican Rice Salad

1 cup cooked brown rice
1 15oz can black beans
1 cup corn kernels
½ onion - diced
¼ green bell pepper - diced
1 jalapeno pepper - seeded and diced
1 lime - zest and juice
¼ cup chopped cilantro leaves
½ teaspoon minced garlic
½ teaspoon cumin
salt to taste
¼ cup sour cream
shallots - chopped

In a large bowl combine all ingredient except sour cream and shallots. Transfer to serving bowl and pat down. Spread with sour cream and garnish with shallots. Serves 4

Bacon and Cheese Scones

4 slices bacon - chopped
3 cups all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon baking powder
1 tablespoon sugar
1½ teaspoons salt
1 stick unsalted butter - cut into pieces
6oz sharp grated cheddar cheese (1½ cups)
½ cup thinly sliced green onions
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 cup heavy cream, plus 2 tablespoons
Preheat the oven to 400°. In a medium skillet, cook bacon 5 minutes. Into a large bowl, sift together flour, baking powder, sugar, and salt. Cut in butter, cheese, green onions, and work just until it starts to come together. Add the bacon. Add 1 cup cream and work just until it becomes a sticky dough. Transfer to a floured surface and pat until it comes together. Form 2 large circles, 7″ x ¾" thick circle and cut each into 8 wedges. Place on greased cookie sheet brush remaining cream and bake until golden, 20 minutes.

Moist Chocolate Cake

1½ cups all-purpose flour - sifted
1 cup sugar
2/3 cup unsweetened cocoa powder - sifted
4 teaspoons baking powder
1 ¾ cup milk
3 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
confectioners' sugar
Preheat oven 320° F. In a large bowl combine flour, sugar, cocoa powder and baking powder. In a separate bowl, whisk together milk, oil and vanilla. Add wet ingredients to the dry ingredients, stir until just combined. Pour batter into a greased and floured 8-inch pan. Bake 40 minutes or until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean. When cool dust with confectioners' sugar.

Galley essentials August 2015

august 2015 galley essentials
Snatching a quick gulp of miners stew at Mansion House

Kawau Island in the Huaraki Gulf has long been a boating holiday destination for New Zealanders. I first sailed here as a feisty young girl staunchly clinging on to the tiller of Amaley, our 16 foot sailboat that Mum and Dad had recently built. I wanted to prove to them that I was a good sailor in the hopes that they'd take me on future sailing adventures. We anchored in Mansion House bay; a meal and pint ashore at the Elephant House pub for Mum and Dad and an opportunity for my brother and I to run around on the grassy lawn and splash in the sea. At night after the shore side activities died down the stately old white Mansion House on the beachfront looked haunted in the moonlight especially when eerie cries from the exotic peacocks drifted across the bay.

...Mansion House was originally an 11 room red brick house built in 1846 for the islands mining operation manager, although the working Cornish miners and their families lived a less charmed life. In order to mine the copper ore shafts were sunk with horizon tunnels created to link them. The copper ore was below sea level so steam-powered pumps were necessary to dewater the mine. Whims - horse powered winding devices, bought the ore to the surface where it was broken by hand, sorted and loaded onto ships. As the ore contained a high sulfur content spontaneous combustion in the holds of ships was a high risk so a smelting works was built in the neighboring bay. By 1851 the mining operations came to a bitter end as the quality of ore ran low and the goldfields beckoned the miners.

In 1862 Sir George Grey purchased Kawau Island while he was serving his second term as Governor. Grey was a rather complicated autocratic fellow although he tried to apply his principles of justice and equality to a young emerging country. To escape the pressure of politics and indulge his passion for collecting Grey spent a fortune enlarging the manager's house. With a keen interest in the natural sciences and horticulture Grey enjoyed communicating his ideas with notable scientists like Charles Darwin. He planted hundreds of different plant species around the garden and introduced many exotic and native animals including wallabies, kookaburras, weka, peacocks, zebras and monkeys making Mansion House a calling place for many notable persons, including royalty and politicians.

My last visit to Mansion House was with expedition crew. We'd spent the previous evening anchored in Kawau's North Cove visiting with Lin and Larry Pardey over a scrummy curry dinner and decided on a morning trail run to the mine lookout before sailing on to Auckland. The elephant house of my early years is long gone but since 1979 Mansion House's colorful past has been a historic place complete with period furniture and chattels, a relic to one of New Zealand's most influential early statesmen.We arrived at the house at opening time but found the front door locked. Soon a breathless young women came running across the lawn. "Oh, sorry I'm late, I was waiting for the café's hot scones. At the mention of scones our crew went on an express tour of the house before dashing across the lawn to indulge themselves at the café. The following recipes are in remembrance of Mansion House and treasured times on Kawau Island.

Chicken Korma

2 tablespoons vegetable oil
2 lbs. chicken breast - diced
1 onion - sliced
2-inch piece of fresh ginger root - minced
2 chili peppers - seeded and diced
2 tablespoons butter
½ cup of Korma curry paste
1 15oz can of chick peas - drained
1 14oz can of coconut milk
½ cup of shredded, non-sweetened coconut
¼ cup sliced almonds
2 cups Greek yogurt
salt and fresh black pepper to taste
1 bunch fresh cilantro
1 lemon - cut into wedges

In a large pan sauté chicken in oil until browned on all sides, remove from pan. Add onion, ginger, chili and butter, cook 10 minutes. Add curry, chick peas, coconut milk, coconut, half the almonds, chicken and ½ can of water. Bring to a boil, then a simmer, covered, stirring occasionally, for 15 minutes. Season to taste. Serve on a bed of rice, topped with yoghurt, almonds, cilantro and lemon. Serves 6.

Miners Stew

1 tablespoon olive oil
1 onion - diced
4 garlic cloves - chopped
2 tablespoon flour
2¼ lbs. stewing beef - diced
2 tablespoons tomato paste
4 carrots - cut into chunks
4 parsnips - cut into huge chunks
1 cup red wine
1¼ cups beef stock
1 orange - zest only
salt and ground black pepper
Heat oil in a casserole, sauté onion and garlic 3 minutes. In a large plastic bag, add flour and beef, season, toss to coat. Add beef and remaining ingredients to casserole. Stir, bring to the boil then cover. Cook 2 hours in 300°F oven, stirring once. Season to taste and serve with soda scones. Serves 6.

Café soda scone with lashings of whipped cream and jam

Soda Scones

5½ cups flour
1½ teaspoons salt
1½ teaspoons baking soda
2½ cups buttermilk
In a large bowl combine flour, salt and baking soda. Slowly mix in buttermilk. Knead until dough is soft and fairly wet. Turn out on to lightly floured surface & knead 3-4 times to smooth. Shape into 10 flat circles. Place on baking sheet and cut with a cross. Bake 25 minutes at 425°F.

English Cheddar and Pear Chutney Sandwiches

1 lb. pears - peeled, cored and diced
1/3 cup sugar
1/3 cup brown sugar
1/3 cup golden raisins
¼ cup apple cider vinegar
1 tablespoon finely chopped ginger
½ teaspoon mustard seeds
1 shallot - finely chopped
salt to taste
4 slices rye bread - toasted
4 tablespoons Dijon mustard
4 oz sliced aged English cheddar

In a heavy saucepan bring pears, sugar, raisins, vinegar, ginger, salt, mustard seeds, and shallots to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer, stirring occasionally, until chutney is thick, about 1 hour. Season with salt and let cool. Spread toast with chutney and mustard, top with cheddar and another toast. Serve with watercress.

Banana Pecan Granola Bars

1½ cups rolled oats 1 cup coconut flakes
½ cup pecans - chopped
¼ cup sesame seeds
½ teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon cinnamon
½ teaspoon allspice
1 cup dried fruit - chopped
3 ripe bananas - mashed
¼ cup canola oil
1 teaspoon vanilla extract

In a large bowl combine first 4 ingredients. Add salt, cinnamon, allspice and dried fruit. In another bowl, combine remaining ingredients. Add to dry ingredients. Spread batter onto a prepared baking sheet, about ½ inch high. Bake 20 minutes at 350°F. Makes 15 bars.

Galley essentials August 2015

Mahina Tiare arriving at Telegraph Cove

September last year was the month that we cruised the Inside Passage. We arrived in Prince Rupert, BC having made great time on the passage from Hawaii and hit the ground eager to re-visit our favorite noshing haunts Cowpuccions and Opa Sushi. For our passage north to Alaska our new Leg 5 crew came aboard in the early morning so we could catch the tide out of Prince Rupert. Upon exiting Venn Passage we had a brilliant sail to Dundas Island where we tucked ourselves into Brundidge Inlet and celebrated the first day of our trip with a tasty salmon dinner.

Salmon with Wasabi-Lemon Cream Sauce

4 tablespoons sour cream
3 tablespoons mayonnaise
3 teaspoons wasabi
juice from 1 lemon
2 teaspoon soy sauce
2 tablespoons chopped scallions
2 tablespoons cooking oil
1 tablespoon light soy sauce
juice from 1 lemon
fresh ground pepper
4 salmon fillets
dried chili flakes

Whisk together first 5 ingredients. Add water gradually for your desired consistency. Whisk together cooking oil, soy sauce, lemon juice and pepper. Coat salmon with marinade and grill until golden. Serve with wasabi-lemon sauce and garnish with pepper, chili, and scallions. Serves 4.

Ketchikan Yacht Club gave us a hearty welcome and even if town is crazy when the cruise ships are docked, a wander around the quaint shops of Creek Street and quiet visit to Parnassus Book Store will restore the soul. With sunny skies we sailed on to explore Prince of Wales Island and Anan Bay which guarantees amazing bear encounters. Petersburg, a picturesque canning town at the north of the tortuous but well-marked Wrangell Narrows, prides itself as being Alaska's Little Norway. In search of glaciers we headed to Thomas Bay and found ourselves surrounded with spectacular scenery. To get closer to ice we took a dinghy excursion up river only to have in end in near disaster when we got swept onto a gravel bank divide and had to wade back out to the main stream. Treats were in order after that endeavor.

Maple Ginger Popcorn

½ cup popcorn kernels
3 tablespoon coconut oil
3 tablespoons maple syrup
¾ teaspoons ground ginger
½ teaspoons cinnamon
¼ teaspoons nutmeg
¼ teaspoon salt

Preheat oven to 325°F. Pop the popcorn. Melt coconut oil in roasting pan, add syrup and spices. Stir in popcorn. Bake 7 minutes, stirring every couple minutes. Once it browns, it's done.

Mixed Berry Apple Crumble

3 apples - diced
1½ cups berries
¼ cup sugar
1 tablespoon flour
½ teaspoon cinnamon
1/8 teaspoon nutmeg
½ cup flour
½ cups brown sugar
¼ cup oats
pinch of salt
¼ cup butter - diced

In a large bowl, combine apple, berries, sugar, flour, cinnamon, nutmeg, and salt. Transfer to a greased 8"x8" pan. In another bowl, combine flour, brown sugar, and oats and salt. Rub butter into mixture until it crumbles. Sprinkle over apples. Bake 30 minutes at 375°.

For our return south we choose new destinations with intriguing names like Kindergarten Cove, McHenry and Meyers Chuck. We enjoyed trail runs at Naha Bay and watching the seals play in the swift skookum chuck. Unfortunately during our pancake breakfast a wee stowaway mouse appeared on the countertop only to be quickly nailed by John's spatula. Still the pancakes were divine.

Multigrain Pancakes

½ cup whole wheat flour
¼ cup spelt flour
¼ cup cornmeal
2 tablespoons rolled oats
2 tablespoon ground flaxseed
½ teaspoon baking soda
½ teaspoon salt
1 egg - beaten
2 tablespoons honey
1½ cups buttermilk
2 tablespoons butter - melted

Whisk dry ingredients together in a large bowl. In a separate bowl, whisk together egg, honey, buttermilk, and 2 tablespoons melted butter. Add to dry ingredients. Heat frying pan and brush with butter. Spoon in 3tablespoons batter and cook 3 minutes each side until evenly browned. Serves 4.

Our Leg 6 crew joined with trepidation as heavy rains pelted Ketchikan and storm force conditions were forecasted. Fortunately, other than a rough Dixon Entrance crossing, we experienced modest conditions for the few weeks. After a mammoth non-stop 140 mile passage from Prince Rupert we entered Bottleneck Inlet in the dark listening to thundering waterfalls on either side and in the morning we gazed about in amazement; a beautiful tiny bay surrounded by mountains and glaciers. The adventures continued as we explored tranquil Codville Lagoon, the abandoned cannery of Namu, Hakai Institute's impressive facility on Calvert Island, the Finnish utopian community of Sointula, and a peek at a potlatch at Alert Bay. In quiet anchorages we dinned like kings and the following dish got rave reviews.

Halibut with Caper Sauce

½ cup flour
salt and pepper
4 halibut fillets
8 tablespoons butter
¼ cup sherry vinegar
1 tablespoon grainy mustard
2 tablespoons capers
12 cornichons - diced

Season flour with salt and pepper and run the fish through. In a small pot cook 6 tablespoon of butter until it start to turn light brown. Add vinegar, mustard, cornichons and capers. In a large skillet melt 2 tablespoons of butter add halibut each side until browned and opaque all the way through. Serve with caper sauce.

The historic resort of Telegraph Cove provided a colorful stop and whales abounded as we travelled the Broughton's in search of a legend living near Echo Bay. A short hike lead us to the homestead of soon-to-be 80 Billy Proctor. He's spent his entire life in this isolated archipelago fishing and hand logging and has many a story to tell. We were hosted at the Nanaimo Yacht Club by Lorraine Willgress who gave an engaging orientation of this attractive artsy town that offers a self-guided Nanaimo bar trail to 34 experiences and souvenirs. Some of our crew thought this meant drinking establishments, so when Lorraine came to dinner bearing the infamous treat is was a coincidence that two of us also did the same.

galley essentials
Lorraine and Steve compare Nanaimo Bars

Nanaimo Bars

1 cup + 2 tablespoons butter
½ cup sugar
5 tablespoons cocoa powder
1 egg - beaten
1½ cups graham cracker crumbs
1 cup coconut
½ cup finely chopped almonds
3 tablespoons milk
2 tablespoons custard powder
2 cups confectioner's sugar
4 ounces semi-sweet chocolate

In a saucepan melt ½ cup butter, sugar and cocoa, add egg and cook to thicken. Remove from heat, add crumbs, coconut and almonds. Press into 8"x8" pan. Cream together ½ cup butter, milk, custard powder and confectioner's sugar. Spread over bottom layer. Chill. Melt chocolate and remaining butter over low heat. When cool but still liquid, pour over second layer and chill.

Now only a short distance from Mahina Tiare's old homeport of Friday Harbor there's still more to check out so if I've gone walkabout you're sure to find me at Saltspring market.

October Galley Essentials

October Galley
Choosing a Halloween Pumpkin

Aladdin, Baby Boo, Howden Biggie, Iron Man, Red Warty Thing and Old Zebs. No it's no they're not the names of Halloween costume characters, just a sample of the many varieties of pumpkin. The word pumpkin originated from the Greek word Pepõn which means large melon. It was them morphed, by the French to pompon, the English to pumion, Shakespeare referred to the "pumpion" in his Merry Wives of Windsor, and eventually to pumpkin by American colonists as referenced in 1820 publication of "The Legend of Sleepy Hollow" by American author Washington Irving.

Is pumpkin a vegetable? No. A fruit? Yes! A fruit is defined as being the part of the plant which contains seeds and the average pumpkin contains about a cup of seeds. Since some squash share the same botanical classifications as pumpkins, the names are frequently used interchangeably. One botanical classification relies on the characteristics of the stems: pumpkin stems are more rigid, prickly, and angular than squash stems, which are generally softer, more rounded, and more flared where joined to the fruit. A pumpkin is a member of the cucurbit (gourd) family which includes pumpkins, squash, cucumbers, luffas, watermelons and melons. The majority of these plants in are vines, however there are some exceptions.

Originating in the ancient Americas these early pumpkins were certainly not the traditional round orange upright Jack-O-Lantern but a crooked neck variety. Archeologists have determined that variations of pumpkins were cultivated along river and creek banks along with sunflowers and beans. When maize was introduced having been traded northwards, pumpkin was grown using the "Three Sisters" technique.

The Three Sisters, refers to the dietary staples of the Mesoamerican diet: corn, beans and squash which grow and thrive together, each plant benefitted from the others. The lankly corn husks provided a structure for the beans to latch onto. The squash covers the ground, preventing pesky weeds from appearing. And like all beans, they return nitrogen to the soil to help nearby plants. The Iroquois believe corn, beans and squash are precious gifts from the Great Spirit, each watched over by one of three sister spirits, called the De-o-ha-ko, or Our Sustainers. The planting season is marked by ceremonies to honor them, and a festival commemorates the first harvest of green corn on the cob. By retelling the stories and performing annual rituals, Native Americans passed down their knowledge of using the Three Sisters through many generations.

october galley
Three Sisters Soup

Three Sisters Soup

1 tablespoon coconut oil
1 onion - diced
1 red orange bell pepper - diced
2 cups diced pumpkin
12 garlic cloves - minced
5 cups of stock or water
1 teaspoon ground ancho chile
1 teaspoon aleppo chili flakes
1 teaspoon sweet smoked paprika
2 cups corn
2 cups cooked black beans
juice of a lime juice
1 cup coarsely chopped cilantro
salt and freshly ground pepper

In a large soup pot heat oil, add onion and bell pepper; cook 2 minutes. Add pumpkin and garlic and cook 10 minutes. Add the water, salt, chili, paprika, bring to a boil. Add corn and black beans and simmer until vegetables are cooked, approximately 15 minutes. Remove from heat. Stir in lime juice and cilantro. Season to taste. Serves 4.

Native Americans survived the long cold winters with the help pumpkin which keep well. The sweet flesh was used in numerous ways: dried, roasted, baked, parched, and boiled. Dried pumpkin could be stored and ground into flour. They ate the seeds, used them as a medicine and added the blossoms to stews. The outer pumpkin shells were also dried and used for bowls and containers to store grain, beans and seeds.

Early European settlers would certainly never have survived without the gift of the Three Sisters from the Native Americans; the story behind Thanksgiving celebration. When I think of Thanksgiving I picture a Pilgrim woman in a bleached starched white apron holding perfectly fluted crust pumpkin pie but I've just discovered this was not so. The Pilgrims sliced the top off of a pumpkins, scooped out the seeds and filled the cavity with cream, honey, eggs and spices. They replaced the top and buried the pumpkin in the hot ashes of a cooking fire. When it was cooked they removed the blacked pumpkin and ate the inner spiced custard along with the pumpkin flesh. These early settlers even made beer from pumpkins when there was a shortage of barley and hops. You may wonder why beer was considered a necessity back then but it was a safer beverage to drink than water which due to contamination made you sick.

Pumpkins come in a multitude of colors and shapes, some are more suited to being carved or displayed while others are just fabulous for culinary use. If you're looking for some pumpkin inspiration here are some more recipes to try.

Multi-Grain Pumpkin French Toast

½ cup pumpkin puree
¼ cup milk
2 eggs
1 tablespoon brown sugar
1 teaspoon pumpkin spice
6 slices multi-grain bread

In bowl whisk all ingredients, except bread, until combined. Spray a heated skillet with cooking spray. Dip one slice of bread into pumpkin mix then cook 3 minutes each side. Repeat with reaming slices.

Savory Spiced Pumpkin Hummus

1 15oz can chickpeas
½ cup pumpkin puree
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
1 small clove garlic
1 teaspoon ground smoked paprika
¾ teaspoon ground cumin
½ teaspoon ground coriander
½ teaspoon ground turmeric
½ teaspoon sea salt
pumpkin seeds for garnish

Blend all ingredients together in a food processor until smooth. Garnish with spices and pumpkin seeds.

Pumpkin Black Bean Enchiladas

2 tablespoons olive oil
1 onion - chopped
4 cloves garlic - minced
1 serrano or jalapeno pepper - minced
1 tablespoon ground cumin
1 teaspoon smoked paprika or chipotle powder
¼ teaspoon ground cloves
3½ cups pumpkin puree
2 cups chicken broth
6 large tortillas
4½ cups black beans
2 cups grated cheddar cheese
6 tablespoons sour cream
1 avocado - sliced
chopped cilantro

In a large saucepan sauté onion in oil 5 minutes. Add garlic and serrano pepper, cook 2 minutes. Add cumin, paprika and cloves, cook 1 minute. Stir in pumpkin and broth, simmer as you assemble the enchiladas. Preheat oven to 375°F. Spread 1 cup pumpkin sauce in the bottom of a 9"x13"x2" baking dish. Place a tortilla on a flat surface, top with ¾ cup black beans, ¼ cup sauce and 2 tablespoons cheddar. Roll up and place in baking dish. Proceed the same way with remaining tortillas. Top with remaining sauce and cheddar and dollops of sour cream. Bake 30 minutes. Serve garnished with avocado and cilantro. Serves 6.

This month Amanda flies home from Sweden to enjoy autumn in the San Juan's.

November Galley


Hailing from New Zealand November is the month for celebrating Guy Fawkes and the Melbourne Cup. We got to experience that later when after two days close-haul sailing on passage from Brisbane and not being able to steer a rhumb line for North Cape, New Zealand we found ourselves closing in on Lord Howe Island. It's an isolated 6 by 2.5 mile crescent-shaped volcanic remnant 375 miles north east of Sydney that, due to its biodiversity, was listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1982. We'd not faxed the required request to visit but decided to give them a call on the VHF. A chap name Clive answered saying, "You're welcome to enter the lagoon, I'll inform the sole policeman but you're gonna find it pretty quiet; it's Cup day at the bowling club".

We indeed found town deserted, for an island population of 350 people, so headed to the bowling club. What a wild scene. The ladies were sporting glamourous cleavage-revealing dresses accessorized with fab shoes and hats while the guys were dressed in equally outrageous tuxes. We were warmly invited to join the party although they were disappointed we'd missed the Calcutta. It was then explained it was Melbourne Cup Day; Australia's major thoroughbred horse race.

The morning started 10:30 with the opening of the sweeps followed by the fashion show on the lawn with several categories of prizes. Ticket sales closed before the luncheon after which there was the drawing of horses. Part of the Calcutta is the auctioning off of tickets/horses which then went on to sound rather complicated as to who paid what to whom. Never mind, everyone was in good spirit. We chatted with many friendly folk including a delightful couple who cruise 6 months a year then return to the island to pick kentia palm seeds; the island's famous export since 1880. When paying our mooring fee John had forgotten to ask for the key to the free showers and laundry but he'd no need not worry as our crew member Linda shamelessly flirted with the Lord Mayor, talking him out of his own set of keys. After watching the race we wished everyone all the best for the prize giving and went off in search of adventure.

John and I couldn't resist renting mountain bikes, no locks required while our crew met a few more colorful characters as they hitchhiked and trekked from one end of the island to another. They frequented notable vistas such as Transit Hill and Binky Beach where the surf boards laying in the dunes were too irresistible for Tom, our wayward Canadian crewmember, who then took to the surf. For dinner the village Anchorage restaurant came highly recommend. They too were celebrating and offered a delectable evening cocktail list that reflected the island old place names. Expecting typical Aussie beer battered fish and chips we were surprised by a local gourmet fare that inspired the following recipes.

Seared Scallops with Prosciutto and Grapefruit

2 fennel bulbs - thinly sliced
4 slices prosciutto
2 tablespoons butter
4 tablespoons olive oil
12 large fresh sea scallops
3 pink grapefruit - segmented
juice of 1 lemon
3 cups microgreens
1 cup sliced scallions

Sprinkle fennel with salt. In a pan toast prosciutto 7 minutes. Remove and dice. In a saucepan heat butter and 2 tablespoons oil; sear scallops 2 minutes each side. In a bowl combine fennel, grapefruit remaining olive oil, salt, and juice. Divide onto four plates top with scallops and then greens, scallions and prosciutto. Serves 4.

Pearl Barley Risotto with Tomato and Parmesan

14 ounces cooked pearl barley
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 onion - chopped
2 garlic cloves - minced
1 14oz can diced tomatoes
1 tablespoon of tomato paste
2 tablespoons chopped fresh thyme
1 teaspoon sugar
¼ teaspoon dried chili flakes
5 ounces grated parmesan
¼ cup fresh chopped basil leaves
salt and pepper

Heat oil in frying pan; saute onion and garlic 3 minutes. Add tomatoes and paste. Add thyme, sugar, chili, and season to taste. Add barley and Parmesan. Heat through stirring, finally add basil. Serve with garnished with shaved Parmesan, olive oil and topped with grilled fish or shrimp. Serves 3.

Mustard Roast Lamb

1 4.5lb leg lamb
8 garlic cloves - peeled
½ cup Dijon mustard
kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
fresh herbs such as rosemary, thyme and savory
½ cup red wine

Place small cuts in lamb and insert garlic. Spread mustard over lamb and season to taste. Place in roasting pan, pour over wine and scatter with herbs. Cover loosely with foil. Roast 3 hours, at 375°F, remove foil and allow to brown ½ hour.

blood orange cake
The Anchorage's blood orange cake

Blood Orange and Grand Marnier Cake

1½ cups flour
2½ teaspoon baking powder
½ teaspoon baking soda
1 teaspoon salt
3/4 cup butter
1½ cups sugar
1½ cups of ricotta
3 eggs
2 blood oranges - zest and juice
1½ teaspoons vanilla
¼ cup Grand Marnier
5 tablespoons confectioners sugar
3/4 cup extra-light cream cheese
blood orange segments

In a small bowl, sift together the first five ingredients. Cream together butter, sugar and ricotta until pale and fluffy. Add eggs, one at a time. Beat in Grand Marnier, vanilla, ½ the juice and zest. Pour into prepared cake pan and bake 35 minutes at 350°F. Beat together icing sugar and remaining juice and zest. Beat in cream cheese. Spread frosting and decorate with segments.

The next morning keen for more exploring we headed ashore at 0500. This exotic, sub-tropical island was uninhabited when discovered in 1788 by the RN ship, Supply on passage from Sydney to found the penal colony on Norfolk Island. A few decades later three British whalers and their NZ Maori wives and children settled on the island to trade provisions with passing whaling ships. Unfortunately the following decades of further settlement had dire consequents to the native fauna as it was easy to catch and the arrival of rats hastened its decline. On a happier note today over 75% of the island's original natural vegetation remains intact and a marine parks extends out 12 miles beyond world's most southernmost barrier coral reef.

Before departure we met up with our crew at the island's co-op and admired their dedication to encourage sustainable practices. Over lunch crew relayed tales of encounters with tame lagoon fish and how not to lose your shorts body-boarding. It was a sad farewell as none of us wanted to leave but on rounding the island's southern tip we got a rewarding view of the stunning Balls Pyramid, the world's tallest sea stack were the Lord Howe stick insect, thought to be extinct in 1920 was rediscovered in 2001.

It was a cool crisp evening as we scurried along the quayside of Victoria's Inner harbor. Behind us Government Street twinkled with a dizzy display of lights while beside us the Empress Hotel stood majestic with her façade awash with glow of red and white lights upon which a sat a halo of green illuminating the dormer windows. A large open white marquee festooned with equally white twinkling lights graced the front lawn displaying a merry scene of ice skaters. The neo-Baroque British Columbia Parliament building ahead of us was cleverly outlined with white lights while its top dome, decorated in green and red lights, reminded me of a figgy pudding. We'd come to the marina to visit Mary Ann and Larry aboard Traversay III a smart Waterline yacht looking dashing with her Christmas light display.

John and I were excited. Tightly clutching our seasonal drinks, nibbles and an assortment of charts and books, we only stopped briefly to view the lighted scene before arriving at Traversay. We were quickly ushered inside the cozy saloon gaily decorated with a global collection of Christmas ornaments. Drinks and nibbles were offered but small chat was not needed as being seasoned sailors we were onto the serious business of information swapping. John and Larry poured over charts discussing the intriguing places we should visit on our upcoming Scotland passages. Traversay had cruised the west coast of Scotland in 2013 on their way to bigger sights; the Northwest Passage.

I offered my assistance to Mary Ann, who was very industrious in the galley, and was set to work chopping veggies. I enjoyed this time as I got to glean some gems of Mary Ann's cooking philosophy. Like most long distance cruisers many of her recipes have onions or garlic (or both) and she likes to use a lot of ginger and yoghurt, when it's available, to top-up soups or in ethnic recipes. When transiting the Northwest Passage the pressure cooker was vital for barley, black bean and lentil soups along with cooking soaked dried beans. Coconut milk is another favorite ingredient; it's essential in Thai food and makes curries much smoother. And who can turn down a slice of cake.

Fish Curry with Cashews

2 tablespoons butter
1 onion - chopped
2 garlic cloves - minced
1 tablespoon grated ginger
4 tablespoons curry powder
2 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon ground cumin
½ teaspoon cayenne
4 large fish fillets - diced
1 cup cashews
1 can coconut cream
pinch of saffron
¼ cup of cilantro - chopped

In a large frying pan melt butter, add onion, garlic and ginger and saute 4 minutes. Add curry, salt, cumin and cayenne and stir until fragrant. Add fish cook and stir to coat with spices. Finely chop half the cashews and add to fish. Add coconut milk and saffron, bring to a simmer, cook until fish is cooked adding remaining cashews and cilantro near end of cooking. Serve with rice. Serves 4.

Lemon Loaf

½ cup butter
1¼ cups sugar
2 eggs
½ cup milk
2 cups flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
¼ teaspoon salt
1 lemon zest and juice

In a large bowl, cream butter and 1 cup sugar. Beat in eggs, one at a time, until creamy. Blend in milk. In another bowl, mix together flour, baking powder, salt and zest. Add flour mix to batter. Bake in a greased loaf pan at 350° for 50 minutes. In a saucepan heat lemon juice and remaining sugar until sugar dissolves. Remove loaf to rack and while hot, with a toothpick poke holes all over the top and spoon over glaze.

The general conversation switched from anchorages to Munro's when we were joined by salty sailors Tony and Coryn Gooch along with Charlie and Janet. A Munro is a mountain in Scotland with a height over 3,000 feet and ever since John and I bagged our first Munro a few years back when visiting Queenies Balmoral Estate we've been keen to bag some more. Janet was the only non-sailor and Charlie, who is well into his 70's doesn't really consider himself a sailor even though he sails a Weta trimaran that he's flipped twice in the four times he's taken it out. Experienced hillwalkers, Charlie first took a liking to Janet many years ago when as president of the Edinburgh Mountaineering Club he'd suggested that the boy's needed to entice some fellow Cambridge student girls up a Munro. Only a few girls appeared keen and when most of them dropped out going up the hillside the remaining Janet proved to be the girl for Charlie.

On previous Traversay sing-alongs Mary Ann had given us the option to eat first then sing or vice versa but tonight Mary Ann decided to get dinner done with first. With no fuss she promptly served a scrumptious paella and salad followed by a divine summer pudding. Before long the plates were cleared away, glasses refilled and the event we'd all gathered together for began. From under the forward double berth Mary Ann slide out her electronic piano and Larry promptly distributed 8 vintage Cleveland City carol song books. It was time to sing and sing we did, long into the night with many entertaining conversations added to the mix. To read of Traversay's adventures visit


Mary Anne's Easy Paella

½ teaspoon saffron threads
4½ cups boiling chicken broth
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 onion - diced
2 clove garlic - minced
12oz chorizo sausage - crumbled
2 boneless chicken breasts - diced
2 cups long-grain rice
4 cups fresh asparagus - cut into 1-inch lengths
1 red pepper - sliced
1lb shrimp

Add saffron to broth. Heat oil, add onion and garlic, saute 2 minutes. Add chorizo and chicken, saute 2 minutes. Stir in rice, add broth, asparagus and pepper, bring to a boil, reduce heat and cook 12 minutes. Nest in shrimp and cook 6 minutes. Serves 4-6.

Summer Pudding

5 cups mixed berries: blueberries, raspberries and blackberries
1 cup pitted red tart cherries - optional
1/3 cup sugar
1 sponge cake - sliced (a loaf of white bread, with crusts removed, is the English tradition)
whipped cream

In a saucepan, add berries and sugar, simmer 5 minutes. Line a 5 cup bowl with sponge slices cutting the sponge to fit the gaps like a puzzle. Fill with berry mix and juice then top with a layer of sponge to encase the pudding. Cover with plastic wrap, and a plate that's slightly smaller than the bowl. Weigh the plate down with cans and refrigerate overnight. Turn out pudding, slice and serve with lashings of whipped cream. Serves 8.

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