Click HERE to see Mahina Tiare's track and current location on Google Earth
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Leg 6 - 2015, Update 1
August 4, 2015, 2030 hrs,
44.47 N, 21.41 W, Log: 189,781 miles Baro: 1017.3, Cabin Temp: 75 F,
Cockpit: 74 F, Sea Water: 66F Beam reaching at 6.6 kts in 24-30 kt NNW
winds 600 miles from Ballydavid Head, Dingle Peninsula, Ireland
Leg 6 OFF TO A FLYING START!
Our time off between Legs 4 & 6 was the best ever! It was a treat being
back in Horta, (www.marinasazores.com/horta)
catching up with old friends and finding the painted boat names of Maiden
Great Britain (Amanda's Whitbread Race boat), Taitoa (Amanda's parent's
wooden gaff ketch from their 1988 visit) and Mahina Tiare's still amidst the
hundreds of boat names and paintings on the breakwater and marina walls and
sidewalks, but after two nights in port after crew left Amanda and I set
sail for Pico Island.
I wanted check out a small new marina 22 miles away in Lajes on the south
side of Pico. In 2006 we'd cycled 120 km around Pico in two days on our
Dahon folding bikes, falling in love with this dramatic and productive
rugged island. We were especially attracted to Lajes and Ribeira, two small
whaling/fishing villages that looked like possible anchorages for Mahina
Tiare. While clearing out with the Horta harbormaster, I asked him to call
and see if there was room for MT in the Lajes marina - there was, and when
we arrived, the harbormaster and his assistant helped us into a small slip.
In days of whaling, Lajes do Pico was a very busy and successful little
town. In the Azores whaling was only done under sail or oar, never with
motor boats, and only ended in 1981. Now in the small harbor we counted
eight large (20+ passenger) inflatable whale watching boats which each went
out 3-4 times a day. Between working on boat projects we spent our time
exploring town and as part of an extended morning run we even hitchhiked 10
km south to the smaller whaling village of Ribeiras. Here we found four
immaculate whale boats pulled up on the boat ramp and what appeared to be
enough room to anchor MT behind the breakwater, out of the swell. The
village looked like a postcard scene, and as soon as we hitched back to
Lajes we paid our bill with the harbormaster and set off with MT. Speaking
of marina moorage bills, the prices for all Azorean marinas are the same.
For MT's 46' we pay 18 euro per night including electricity, internet and
water which is the least expensive we've found anywhere!
Ribeiras harbor is tiny, and the historic motor launch used to tow the
whales and whaling boats was moored in a prime spot. We ended up mooring
inside the breakwater by positioning two opposing bow anchors 180 degrees
apart
Mahina Tiare moored Bahamian-style behind
Ribeiras's breakwater |
(Bahamian mooring) by hand underwater so MT could swing around in the
small space without coming too close to the rocks, wharf, or whaling launch.
This worked perfectly for several days and we had a blast, snorkeling, trail
running to explore the coast, checking out the village and hitchhiking
further down the coast to Nesquim, and even smaller whaling village. Most of
our rides were with farmers, and even if they spoke only Portuguese, they
were incredibly hospitable.
Before we knew it, it was time to head back to Horta and we arrived early
Wednesday morning in time for grocery shopping and for Amanda to spend
Thursday touching up the paint work on the three boat names on marina wall.
Amanda checks out what needs to be repainted on Mahina's
logo on the marina wall |
While scurrying back from our final grocery shop to welcome our crew at
noon on Friday in the marina we passed an entourage of VIP's that looked
like the mayor, head of the navy, etc, all carrying colorful printed bags
with hydrangeas sticking out of the top. I said to Amanda, "Looks like swag
bags!” When we got back to MT, surprise! There in our cockpit was one of the
bags and the guy on the next boat said we'd just missed the town officials
personally inviting all visiting cruisers to a dinner party that night at
the yacht club to kick off the 40th Semana do Mar, or Sea Week;
Amanda
and I with our gifts from Horta's mayor |
a festival
of sailboat and whale boat races, rowing races, music, parades. etc. In the
bag was a booklet about the festival events, a printed letter in Portuguese,
English and French inviting us to dress our yachts with all the flags we
had, an invite to join in the festivities, and a big slab of vacuum-packed
local gourmet cheese. Unfortunately we were just about to set sail, but it
sure would have been fun to enjoy the festivities.
As soon as our Leg 6 crew stepped aboard we had a quick lunch before
setting
Our
eager beaver Leg 6 crew: Keith, Tom, Steve, Peter, Bettina and Jeff |
sail on a glorious sunny downwind sail for Velas, another new marina
on Sao Jorge Island, 22 miles to the north.
We'd been hearing stories of the legendary hospitality of Jose Dias,
harbormaster at the recently completed Velas Marina
(www.marinasazores.com/velas) and sure enough, Jose was on the end of the
first dock, waving us to the one remaining end-tie large enough for Mahina
Tiare. He warmly welcomed us to his island and was genuinely sorry to hear
we planned to spend only one night. He suggested an amazing restaurant for
dinner and that perhaps we might enjoy the community lava rock ocean
swimming pool a short walk away. We were delighted to take him up on both
suggestions.
Mahina Tiare end-tied in the new Velas marina |
Jose Dias,
Vela's enthusiastic harbormaster |
Saltwater lava town swimming pool |
Velas is an attractive little town with interesting and unusual
architecture, parks and civic buildings and very friendly inhabitants so it
was hard and sad to leave but we were hoping to make the 1,100 mile passage
to Ireland between two very powerful storm systems tracking across the North
Atlantic.
We started out with perfect broad reaching conditions, covering 152 and
149 miles the first two days before encountering full gale force winds of
35-40, gusting 47.
Bettina and Peter practicing reefing |
Bettina keeping a lookout
for sperm whales |
In preparation for the increasing wind I rigged the inner cutter stay and
got the storm jib and sheets ready below. Soon we were down to three reefs
in the main and no jib and still surfing at up to 10.2 kts. The strongest
gust near the end of the passing front blew our anemometer clean off the
masthead, so now we're having to estimate wind speeds.
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Surfing action in large breaking seas |
Peter and Bettina relishing heavy weather sailing |
Click HERE to read Commanders Weather
forecast.
The center of the low has now passed, winds are slowly dropping and
clocking around from a broad reach to slightly forward of the beam, and were
now hoping that most importantly, the large breaking confused seas will soon
flatten out.
August 6, 2015, 1700 hrs, 48.05 N, 17.44 W, Log: 190,062 miles Baro:
1017.8, Cabin Temp: 70 F, Cockpit: 70 F, Sea Water: 61F Close reaching at
6.5 kts in 20 kt NNW winds with double-reefed main and genoa 374 miles
from Ballydavid Head, Dingle Peninsula, Ireland
No sooner had the previous low passed than the weatherfax, GRIB files and
Commanders Weather forecast were all indicating the next area of concern
would be a low that would form directly on our course, resulting in 25+kt
headwinds for at least 24 hours. By checking GRIB forecast in three hour
intervals I determined that if we motorsailed directly on course for 12
hours or so through the light and variable winds between the systems we
might end up on the north side instead of the south side of the low. This
would then be a better angle to lay our course without being close-hauled,
so we gave it a try.
Keith takes a sun sight |
Fortunately the confused seas were not directly on the bow and by dawn
this
Crew take a moment on the bow after on-deck rig inspection to pose
for a photo: Steve, Keith, Peter, Jeff and Bettina |
morning we'd shut the engine down, unrolled a little bit of headsail
and continued directly on course for Ireland through one rain squall after
another. By class time (10 am) the sun was out so we eased sheets and Amanda
taught rig inspection on deck, followed by rigging spares below decks. This
afternoon I completed our diesel engine spares class and now our keen crew
are now unfurling more headsails and easing the sheets eager to keep our
boat speed over 7 kts with the intent on a Sunday landfall in Ireland.
Leg 6 - 2015, Update 2
August 9, 2015, 0530 hrs, 52.16 N, 10.22 W,
Log: 190,471 miles Baro: 1017.5, Cabin Temp: 68 F, Cockpit: 57 F, Sea
Water: 58F Beam reaching at 6.4 kts in 15 kt SW winds 23 miles from
Fenit Marina, Dingle Peninsula, Ireland
HOORAY FOR THE MISTY HILLS OF
IRELAND!!
Bettina happily hoists our Ireland arrival flags |
Soon after first light Keith and Jeff spotted very green rugged hills of
the Dingle Peninsula and an escort of small dolphins appeared on the bow.
We're now well into the lee of the peninsula and the confused swell that
reached 2.9 meters, driven by winds to 35 kts by passage yesterday of a
powerful cold front have completely disappeared.
What an amazingly
good passage this has been! We've had three powerful systems pass but we've
not had any headwinds and seas and are making landfall a full day earlier
than planned. Yippie, another day for exploring the wild west coast of
Ireland and Scotland!
This has been one of our keenest crews of the
year with not a whimper during the heavy weather conditions or occasional
drizzle although they do mention a thirst for a pint of Guinness after
landfall
Speaking of keen crews, here they are! Jeff,
Tom, Keith, Steve, Peter and Bettina |
Steven, 18 I grew up cruising
the West Coast of British Columbia with my dad, as well as some charter
trips to the BVI's and Med. My dad took Jason, my older brother, on a Mahina
leg from Fiji to Vanuatu when he was 18 and now he's taken me. This has been
an incredible experience!
Tom, 57 This is my third Mahina
Expedition and it's been a fantastic sharing these sailing adventures with
my sons, and now I have two proven offshore crew for the day we sail over
the horizon! (Tom is a maritime lawyer with the best shipwreck stories we've
ever heard)
Peter, 55 I'm a real estate broker originally from
Ontario but now living in the SF Bay area. My wife and I first cruised the
Caribbean in our mid-20's, then later for two years on our Stevens 47 with
our two young boys. I'm looking forward to buying another boat and setting
sail again, but first my wife Tracy is joining me in Oban and we are cycling
across England on back roads next week.
Keith, 52 I'm originally
from Cape Town and only learned to sail as a nice way of exploring the BC
coast after emigrating to Canada. I'm planning more sailing in the Caribbean
and elsewhere before returning to BC. Keith works as a petro-chemical
engineer in Canada's oil sand fields.
Bettina, 48 Originally from
Germany, I learned to sail on Lake Wabamum, Alberta, Canada as well as in
British Columbia. My favorite pastimes are sailing and racing our C & C 25
and traveling. I work as an environmental engineer to support the boat
habit.
Jeff, 49 I learned to sail with my wife Bettina and am
really looking forward to retirement and a larger boat. (Jeff designs,
builds and operates dialysis machines in Edmonton, Alberta)
August
14, 2015, 0700 hrs, 56.41 N, 6.22 W, Log: 190,844 miles Baro: 1010.2,
Cabin Temp: 68 F (furnace is on), Cockpit: 57 F, Sea Water: 57F
Motorsailing at 7 kts in calm winds 9 miles from Muck, Inner Hebrides,
Scotland
Fenit Harbor |
We had a lovely landfall at Fenit Harbour, with Connie, the
old harbor master waving us into a tiny berth and welcoming us to Ireland,
even on a Sunday morning. Checking in was cinch, as he kept calling customs
until he reached an officer simply took our details over the phone,
suggested we leave a copy of our outbound clearance with the harbor master
and said, "Welcome to Ireland!”.
Fenit is a tiny shoreside village and Wooly, a friendly local boater and
contractor not only offered us a ride eight miles into Tralee when he saw us
hitchhiking, but he waited as we grocery shopped and dropped us back at the
marina. That night we enjoyed an tasty dinner at a nearby restaurant/pub and
our crew relaxed listening to a local singer as Amanda and I headed back to
MT for much needed sleep.
Two crazy stowaway Leprechauns named "Pete the Pirate" and "TomTom" tussle to shake out a reef |
At first light Monday morning we set sail
on a fast broad reach of 52 miles for Kilronan in the offshore Aran Islands.
What a sail we had and with wind speeds from 12 to 35 kts our crew kept
Mahina Tiare's speed between 8 and 9 kts by lots of reefing and unreefing.
As we got closer to the Aran Islands, the occasional drizzle cleared off and
dolphins entertained us for hours, zipping back and forth off the bow.
Although there were eight free
moorings, they didn't appear to be well maintained so we anchored and headed
ashore to rent bikes while the sun still promised to shine. The bike rental
person gave us two half-days for the price of one day (a very reasonable
10€) and we set off to explore the Neolithic fort of Dun Aonghasa, one of
the oldest and largest in Europe.
Bettina stands in the Middle Enclosure at Dun Aonghasa |
A view of the surrounding landscape from Dun Aonghasa wall |
Early Tuesday morning we were all on our bikes
and off exploring again, this time several of us went to the Black Fort,
which predates Dun Aonghasa by several years.
I enjoyed the
Black Fort bike and hike thanks to the recommendation from Nigel Calder
who's just visited here...but... |
It's certainly a giddy height
from these cliffs |
Bettina and Jeff busy exploring the Black Fort |
Steve sews up a hole on his shore
side blue jeans during sail repair class while Bettina gives encouraging
advice |
Inishbofin (island of the white cow) was the next on the agenda
a 46 mile passage to a small island off the tip of the Conemara Peninsula
famous for Celtic music.
We enjoyed hiking, exploring, listening to music Tuesday
afternoon and evening and Wednesday morning everyone was off to hike out to
Cromwell's fort which guards the entrance to this tiny harbor before setting
sail for Scotland.
A group of kids prepare to launch their sailing dinghies for a day of racing in Inishbofin harbor |
Although
many we've spoken with have said this has been the wettest and windiest
summer they've ever seen, a ridge of high pressure had become stationary
over Ireland and our 220 mile passage from Inishbofin to Scotland has been
incredibly lovely, with great sailing in sunny and surprisingly warm
conditions.
We're hoping to make landfall at Muck, one of the Small
Isles, nestled between the Isles of Skye and Mull, and a real favorite of
ours. It has been owned and actively farmed by one very enlightened family
since 1896.
August 16, 2015, 0700 hrs, 56.31 N, 5.48 W, Log:
190,882 miles Baro: 1016.7, Cabin Temp: 67 F, Cockpit: 57 F, Sea Water:
57F Motoring at 7 kts in calm winds 12 miles from Oban, Scotland
Early morning landfall at Muck |
Muck was even nicer than we
remembered! Soon after anchoring and breakfast and a brisk swim for a select
few hardy souls Amanda taught going aloft safely for rig inspection before
we all trouped ashore to check out the daily specials in the tea
house...oops, I mean for hiking!
Peter (sporting a stylish Aran
Isle knitted hat) takes a selfie at the top of the mast |
Although Muck
only has about 30 inhabitants there is scheduled ferry service several times
weekly, plus a new guest lodge. It's a wonderful island for wandering and
although a rather delightful highlight is the quaint tea and gift/craft shop
along with the Green Shed (www.thegreenshed.net) which houses an assortment
of island crafts and produce from knit wool items, homemade jams, paintings,
soaps, plus bags of onions and potatoes. Payment is by means of an honesty
box which appeared to have hundreds of pounds in it. There's an excellent
new community hall where guests can take showers and do laundry and miles of
trails and roads for hiking.
Yep, Life is a rush here on Muck,
Here I am stuck sharing the busy road way with a chicken. |
Four of our
crew attended a Ghanaian drumming concert that evening at the community hall
and learned that the laird, or owner of the island was the kindly
white-haired older gentleman we'd passed earlier on a tractor and his wife
was the gracious woman running the tea shop.
Fun
in the craft/tea shop as Bettina has already been knitting up a storm with
her yesterday's purchase of local wool while Amanda stocks up on local
literature. |
Saturday morning after
our final classes (winch servicing and clearing customs in foreign ports)
our crew insisted on another tea shop break and then we set sail for
Tobermory, 21 miles south on the Isle of Mull. Enroute we practiced
Lifesling overboard rescue and had some excellent sailing.
We arrived early afternoon while there were still a few
slips available in Tobermory's small, but about to be expanded marina and
enjoyed exploring the ancient marine chandlery store and this very
quintessential little tourist seaport. Our crew enjoyed live music and
dancing and Amanda and I enjoyed a sunset hike and this morning several of
us went on a new coast walk trail before breakfast, showers and boat wash
down.
Tobermory at dusk |
A few minutes ago we were hailed
by Chris Adams aboard his HR342 Swallow,
https://swallow342.wordpress.com/category/recent-posts/. (If you look back a
little on his entries, you'll see pictures of our mid-channel meeting!) He'd
seen MT's AIS signature on his radar. Chris sailed with us on
Leg 2-2008,
our most frequently reconnecting leg and had spent six weeks this March
helping fellow expedition members Martin and Dawn sail their HR 342 from
England to Croatia. Many of that group had helped fellow EM Jack Hoopes
cross the Atlantic on his HR 40 and even though they live in Austria, the UK
and US, twice the crew have met in Colorado, where two of them live, for
skiing.
Chris and Anne aboard Swallow |
There you have
it! Leg 6 was a great success - with all our teaching goals accomplished,
some exceptionally fine heavy weather experience and unforgettable island
visits in the Azores, Ireland and Scotland. Leg 6 crew are now off on grand
adventures - Tom and Steve are spending a week traveling around Scotland and
hoping to golf the Old Course at St. Andrew, Keith has several days planned
exploring Mull with his partner, Bettina and Jeff are visiting family and
friends in England and Germany and Peter is mountain biking on back roads
completely across England with his wife Tracy. No shortage of adventure with
this crew!
We'll be off to the Isle of Skye for five days of hiking
and climbing before returning to ready Mahina Tiare for her final expedition
of the year, Scotland to Norway and Sweden.
Leg 6 - 2015, Itinerary

leg 1 | leg 2 | leg 3 |
leg 4 | leg 5 | leg 6 |
leg 7
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